UC Berkeley

This dissertation explores the sense of taste’s significance to knowledge production in seventeenth and eighteenth century England.

Biologically and culturally intertwined with our primal desire for food, scholars historically have considered our sense of taste as a poor stepsister to our detached, rational faculty of vision. Many have dismissed it as a base and primitive modality of experience in early modern Europe, which became still less important with the intellectual ferment of the Scientific Revolution and the Enlightenment. Yet these very qualities, I argue, made taste an especially attractive object of study, informing larger discussions of knowledge, authority, and behavior at a moment when learned understandings of food and the body were undergoing revision.

The following pages sketch the historical anthropology of taste in early modern England. During the seventeenth century, it captured the attention of physicians, scholars, critics, and cooks, animating vehement debates over the constitution of ‘useful’ knowledge and what kinds of people should have access to it. In the eighteenth century, fashionable culinary writers and a new generation of profit-minded nerve doctors reinvented the palate as an embodied mark of refinement, animating controversies about appetite, agency, and reason. In short, my project departs from conventional interpretations of taste as subjective information that can neither be measured nor judged. To argue about taste, this dissertation contends, is to argue about the deepest recesses of human nature.